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Ormea Upega Chapel Viewpoint

A walk in the heart of the Ligurian Alps

Ormea to Upega route

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From the chestnut groves of the Balconata to the stone streets of Terre Brigasque

There are hikes that allow you to discover a territory like no one has ever told you about. The traverse from Ormea to Upega belongs in this category. Three gentle mountain stages, a panoramic thread (the Balconata di Ormea) and a succession of landscapes ranging from ancient chestnut trees to mountain pastures open to the sky. Between the upper valley of the Tanaro and the foothills of Liguria, the route passes through authentic rural countryside, punctuated by small villages frozen in time.

And finally : Upega, a stone village nestling on the sunny side of the mountain, the secret gateway to Mount Saccarello. Looking for an undiscovered walk between France and Italy? You’ve just found it!

Hiking in the Ligurian Alps The great crossing from the Balconata di Ormea to Terre Brigasque

The lively centre of the upper Tanaro valley, Ormea is renowned for its dense network of paths between the sea and the mountains. This is the starting point for the famous Balconata di Ormea: a 40-kilometre panoramic itinerary that runs at an average altitude of 1,200 metres, between the green of the chestnut trees, the grey of the rock and the blue of the Ligurian Sea that appears intermittently on the horizon.

In three days of leisurely walking, RivierALP uses this thread to cross a veritable plant archaeology zone, with chestnut trees over two centuries old, before reaching the alpine pastures of Monte Castello di Quarzina, the fir forests interspersed with ruins from a distant era and finally the sunny lanes of Upega. This isolated village in ancient Terre Brigasque is the finishing point of the itinerary, the gateway to Mount Saccarello and the forests of the Bosco delle Navette, the discreet threshold of Liguria.

Cultural heritage to see

Between centuries-old chestnut groves, stone villages and Terre Brigasque

From the Musée des Souvenirs de Chionea (two small rooms devoted to farming life in days gone by, with a reproduction of an early 20th-century classroom) to the church of Santa Maria Vergine Assunta and its 16th-century altar, via the melancholy ruins that line the Balconata and the spectacular resurgences of the Grotte des Vene, the itinerary takes in several centuries of history in three stages.

One of the discreet charms of the route lies in its small details: the proverbs and sayings in the Ormea dialect engraved on the house number plaques in Chionea, the poetic chapel of San Giovanni Battista isolated in the high pastures, or the abandoned dwellings in the forest, a reminder of an Alpine community that gradually drifted towards the valley in the last century.

The story is further enriched by the ancient Terre Brigasque: this historic territory, long attached to La Brigue (now a French village), has left a palpable cultural imprint in its architecture, traditions and accents. In Viozene, the church of San Bartolomeo marks the gateway to the Mongioie massif. In Upega, the stone streets and facades nestling on the sunny slopes tell the story of a preserved cross-border identity: that of an area that belongs neither entirely to France nor to Italy, but fully to both.

Focus on the Balconata di Ormea: 40 km between sky and valley

The Balconata di Ormea is the backbone of this itinerary. This 40-kilometre panoramic route links Eca to Viozene at an average altitude of 1,200 metres, offering constant views of the slopes of the Tanaro valley and, intermittently, the blue line of the Ligurian Sea in the background.

What makes the experience unique (and a bit sporty!) is also the variety of scenery: shady ancient chestnut groves at the start, resin-scented beekeepers in the middle of the route, wide open mountain pastures at the foot of Castello di Quarzina, then a gradual descent to Terre Brigasque. The Tetto a Biranco, a modern panoramic shelter in white fir, epitomises the spirit of the trail: a lookout point where effort becomes contemplation. For a moment’s pause, the mountains and the Mediterranean share the same horizon!

Testimonial

“This is the hike I recommend for those who want to get away from the overcrowded trails. Three stages from Ormea to Upega on your own, and a real revelation. The chestnut groves, the Balconata, the Tetto a Biranco with its view of the sea, the ruins in the forest… You feel at the heart of something authentic, unspoilt. And arriving at Upega, in this isolated stone village on a sunny hillside, is a memory that stands out from the rest.

– Titouan, full itinerary completed in September

Everything you need to know about your walk between Ormea and Upega